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Sunday, November 13, 2005

Smooth Sailing

10 November 2005
Candeleros Chico to Agua Verde

We gave it our best shot and had the spinnaker up as soon as we were out of the anchorage at 0930. But by 1400, when we'd only averaged 1.6 knots of speed during each of the last two hours, we were getting discouraged. Even though the water was like a glassy lake we actually gave it another half an hour before turning on the engine and finishing up the run into the south anchorage of Agua Verde. Made a quick trip into the village with SolMate to see if the fresh shipment of vegetables had arrived yet but they were running late so we'd have to return the next day.

11 November 2005
Agua Verde

As soon as we spotted two power boats exiting the north anchorage this morning we made a beeline over there to re-anchor Nakia in anticipation of the predicted north breeze. After a dinghy ride to the beach we walked the dirt roads to the village and stocked up on essentials like avocados, home made flour tortillas, zucchini, bananas, peppers, onions, and country fresh cheese. Agua Verde is known for its goat cheese, but this may have been made from cow's milk. Charlie and Grania from Zester had visited the cheese maker himself and their understanding was that conditions weren't exactly right for making the goat cheese. John doesn't care for the rubbery texture, and it's pretty wet, but I like a little bit now and then.

The wind had already started to come up by the time we got back to the dinghy and it almost looked as though it might rain. John got in the water and managed to get some of the bottom clean before it was time to head over to Zester for dinner. We made it an early evening since both boats planned to head south at day break.

12 November 2005
Ague Verde to Isla San Francisco

Wow! This has to have been one of the best sailing days we've ever had. We motored 15 minutes to get out of the anchorage before sunrise, and then set the main and yankee jib to get offshore around a reef before turning south. We then had a wing and wing downwind sail the entire rest of the day! What a switch from the last time we made this trip and had to motor the whole way. It was a little rolly during the morning, with a few 8' seas behind us, but when we finally reached the San Jose channel at Nopolo it flattened out and we were under just "the twins" (twin head sails: jib and drifter out to either side) until we hit seven knots of speed and took the drifter down.
Total trip time: 11 hours (literally sunrise to sunset).
Total hours sailed: 10.5!
Total distance: 57 nautical miles.
As an extra bonus, after we dropped the hook Stan and MJ from SolMate came over in their dinghy to present us with the award for "most miles sailed that day" - rum drinks with ice! Now that's a perfect day.

13 November 2005
Isla San Francisco

We'll probably stay here until we leave for La Paz on Wednesday. Like Lynn on Homer's Odyssey said during our beach walk this morning, "They must have put a new coat of paint on the bottom of the swimming pool because it looks just as bright as it did when we were here in the Spring." This anchorage is truly a jewel in the southern Sea of Cortez. We'll drink a "Wish You Were Here" toast to all of you when we meet on SolMate for happy hour later this afternoon.

Linda and John