We left Port Hardy yesterday with the plan of going to Bull Harbour (N 50° 54' W 127° 56'). We spent three wonderful nights at Port Hardy tied up to a fellow sailor, Darrel, who saved us from having to go anchor out when we arrived from our sail over from Booker Lagoon. Darrel told us that there is good crabbing in Bull Harbour, inspiring us to move that way.
I can sure see why ship captains of old had a love/hate relationship with ports. On the one hand you have to go into port now and again for supplies, fuel, and water. But, on the other hand, the drunkenness and debauchery of the crew while in port is a sure detriment to a successful cruise. Not to say that Linda and I were drinking excessively, or at least more than usual, but we were spending our cruising dollars on frivolous things like meals out, expensive fruits, beer, and entertainment. It's sure a lot cheaper to be anchored in a remote place without the scents of shoreside restaurants to lure your pay away.
As I said it was our plan to get to Bull Harbour but that's not how it turned out. We left very early (0530, much to Darrel's dismay) to catch the last of the ebb tide and hopefully to keep from having to buck the northwesterlies that have been blowing for two weeks straight. As it turned out, the northwesterly wind got up earlier than we did, and when we made our way into the channel the wind blowing on the ebb tide made the chop completely unbearable. We altered plans and were in Port Alexander (N 50° 51' W 127° 39') in time to have Sunday pancakes at 0900.
This morning we took up the fight again, but our foe had given up. The northwest wind had completely died out and we were able to motor from Port Alexander to Bull Harbour in only a few hours (with the last of the ebb to help us along). We ate breakfast on arrival and then put the dinghy in the water to set the crab trap. After setting the trap we headed to the dock where there is supposed to be a nice walk to a beach that's exposed to the northwest (and the full force of the Pacific Ocean). Linda had read that since Bull Harbour is part of First Nation (Indian) lands, it's proper to ask for permission to walk on shore. This was confirmed by a U.S. fisherman who was at the dock and let us use his VHF radio to make contact. We were informed that we could walk on shore if we liked, but there would be a $5 "walking fee." Looks like the Natives have learned much from their erstwhile government. Not having any handy cash, I rowed back to the boat to get some walking paper. Thinking ahead I took $30 back to the dock with me (what if there were "anchoring fees," "viewing fees," and "breathing fees" too?). Good thing I did, as the "walking fee" was $5 per person (or $2.50 per foot if you prefer). Thankfully that was the end of the fees.
We took off down the gravel road and it started to rain, of course. The rain was free though, so we continued our walk and were treated to a very nice beach and view. $5 worth especially considering we sighted a doe with two spotted fawns on our way there, and a sailboat under spinnaker from the beach before we left.
Tomorrow we move from Bull Harbour to Pruth Bay (N 51° 39' W 128° 05') which is our northernmost harbor this trip. The fishing is supposed to be excellent and we know from our 1997 trip that hiking on Calvert Island is beautiful.
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